ADENIA and ARIOCARPUS share very much the same saying. Some say they are difficult to grow, some say they present no difficulty at all. So, who is right who is wrong? All is true...
substrate
I use my standard mixture of BIMS ( = pumice ), LAVA and GRANIT or GNEIS mixed up by 1:1:1. I never add TORF ( = peat ) or other organic compounds. I do not know if lime would be preferable to add to the mix.
culture
Growing season begins around April or May. You will know it when the first shoots began to sprout. ADENIA, ADENIUM, BOWIEA, CUCURBITACEAE, CYPHOSTEMMA, DENDROSICYOS, DIDIEREACEAE und PACHYPODIUM show the same pattern when starting growing season. Very very comfortable to recognize when what has to be done.
Temperature should be above 15 C. In its habitats temperature sinks down to ... C at night and rises to 20 C at day in the coldest season. But I would be careful to "try this at home".
As in nature young plants often stand in the shade of a "mother plant" preventing the seedling from sunburn.
So I cultivate the species in half shade and some plants stand in full sun. Until today I got good results with both cultures.
Watering is done very sparse in April and or May when the growing starts. During summer and fall I water as often as possible. As a "golden rule" I water when the earth has dried out and only when temperature is over 20 C or so. Never water when weather is cold and or wet. But this "golden rule" is true for nearly every succulent.
I allways add fertilizer to the water but in a very very very low concentration.
In September or October the leaves begin to yellow and "turn to paper". Again the same is true for ADENIA, ADENIUM, BOWIEA... so you will know what to do and what should be avoided. No water, no fertilizer, as much sun as possible and cold at night should be given to harden the plants.
Any water in the substrate in connection with cold during day and night can create an infection and or mould. So this may be the time when you may loose your plant. Be careful...
As you can see I have cut away nearly all elder shoots and sprouts. The plant looked to ugly for me. Now the plant can develop new shoots and I will train them to give the plant a more beautiful look. Time will tell...
substrate
I use my standard mixture of BIMS ( = pumice ), LAVA and GRANIT or GNEIS mixed up by 1:1:1. I never add TORF ( = peat ) or other organic compounds. I do not know if lime would be preferable to add to the mix.
culture
Growing season begins around April or May. You will know it when the first shoots began to sprout. ADENIA, ADENIUM, BOWIEA, CUCURBITACEAE, CYPHOSTEMMA, DENDROSICYOS, DIDIEREACEAE und PACHYPODIUM show the same pattern when starting growing season. Very very comfortable to recognize when what has to be done.
Temperature should be above 15 C. In its habitats temperature sinks down to ... C at night and rises to 20 C at day in the coldest season. But I would be careful to "try this at home".
As in nature young plants often stand in the shade of a "mother plant" preventing the seedling from sunburn.
So I cultivate the species in half shade and some plants stand in full sun. Until today I got good results with both cultures.
Watering is done very sparse in April and or May when the growing starts. During summer and fall I water as often as possible. As a "golden rule" I water when the earth has dried out and only when temperature is over 20 C or so. Never water when weather is cold and or wet. But this "golden rule" is true for nearly every succulent.
I allways add fertilizer to the water but in a very very very low concentration.
In September or October the leaves begin to yellow and "turn to paper". Again the same is true for ADENIA, ADENIUM, BOWIEA... so you will know what to do and what should be avoided. No water, no fertilizer, as much sun as possible and cold at night should be given to harden the plants.
Any water in the substrate in connection with cold during day and night can create an infection and or mould. So this may be the time when you may loose your plant. Be careful...
As you can see I have cut away nearly all elder shoots and sprouts. The plant looked to ugly for me. Now the plant can develop new shoots and I will train them to give the plant a more beautiful look. Time will tell...
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